First Impressions: A Village That Stays With You
There are places you go to, and then there are places that come to you long after you’ve left. The latter is Dhampus.
Dhampus is a lovely Gurung village hidden in the lap of the Annapurna range. It’s only a short drive from Pokhara and has stunning views of the Himalayas, easy hiking trails, and real cultural experiences. Nana Mountain Resort sounds too good to be true. But that’s what makes Dhampus so special: it gives you something deep without making you go through pain to get it.
You walk there, your lungs working just hard enough to keep you alive, and then the ridge opens up. You can see the whole Annapurna Massif, including Annapurna South, Gangapurna, Hiunchuli, and the unmistakable double horn of Machhapuchhre (the sacred “Fishtail Mountain”). All of these mountains are within reach of the sky. The terraced fields below look like a green staircase going down the hill, and the prayer flags above snap in the mountain breeze. An old Gurung woman in traditional dress takes care of her garden in the village, and the smell of buckwheat pancakes comes from a stone house somewhere inside.
This is Dhampus. And it has been quietly amazing visitors for decades.
Where Is Dhampus Exactly?
Dhampus Village is a small village mostly home to the Gurung community. It is about 23 kilometers northwest of Pokhara Valley and 1,650 meters above sea level. Khojnu is in the Annapurna Conservation Area, which is one of the largest protected areas in Nepal. It sits on a long ridge that gives it 180-degree views of the Himalayan peaks to the north and the Pokhara Valley and Phewa Lake sparkling below to the south.
On clear days, you can see eight of the biggest Himalayan peaks and the valley that holds one of Nepal’s most popular cities at the same time. As trekkers often say, it is one of the best natural “balconies” in all of South Asia.
The average yearly temperature in Dhampus is 16 degrees Celsius, and the average yearly rainfall is 3,916 mm. Altitude Himalaya The height keeps it cool even in the summer, and the mild weather all year round is one reason why the village has become a popular place to escape the heat of Pokhara’s valley.
The Gurung People: Soul of the Village
If you go to Dhampus without knowing anything about the Gurung people, you’ll only see the canvas and not the painting.
The Gurungs, or Tamu in their own language, are a Tibetan ethnic group that lives in the hills and mountains of Nepal’s Gandaki Province. The Gurung language, also called Tamu Kyi, is a Sino-Tibetan language that comes from the Tibeto-Burman language family.
The Gurungs call themselves “Tamu,” which means “thunder” and “sky.” We don’t know where they came from, but they are of Mongoloid stock and their ancestors may have moved to their current home from Tibet about 2,000 years ago. Encyclopedia.com This ancient lineage is seen in everything from the way their homes are built to the spiritual practices that are still done in the village.
Local stone and slate roofs are used to build traditional Gurung houses. Stone keeps the house warm in the winter and cool in the summer, and slate roofs can handle heavy monsoon rain and are strong during earthquakes. Nepalgatewaytrekking As you walk through Dhampus, you’ll see these beautifully built homes along the ridge. Many of them have a “aangan,” which is a stone-paved courtyard where family life spills outside. Elders sit on covered porches called “pidi,” watching village life go by, while women shell peas and men discuss community matters in the gentle afternoon light.
Visitors to Dhampus will see traditional stone-and-mud houses with thatched or tin roofs, as well as villagers dressed in traditional clothing who work the land just like their ancestors did. Things move slowly here. Farmers take care of rice, millet, and vegetable plots, and friendly herders can be seen leading buffalo or goats along the trails. Naatatravels
The Gurkha Heritage
The Gurkha heritage of Gurung people is one thing that makes Dhampus a proud place to live. After the Anglo-Nepalese War from 1814 to 1816, British troops tried to move into Nepal, but they were shocked to find that Gurkha fighters, including many Gurungs, were so good at fighting that they were able to stop them. The British then started hiring Gurkhas, and they mostly wanted Gurungs and Magars. More than 130,000 Gurkhas fought in World War II and more than 120,000 fought in World War I.
A lot of families in Dhampus have a grandfather, father, or uncle who served in the British or Indian armies. This military tradition has given the community a strong sense of discipline and pride. You can see it in how the village elders stand tall and how they talk about their family with quiet pride.
Holidays and Religion
The Gurungs follow a unique mix of Tibetan Buddhism and older religions. Some Gurung villages still have parts of an old form of the Bon religion that was popular in Tibet and Western China over two thousand years ago. They also have parts of an even older shamanic belief system. Wikipedia
Tamu Losar, the Gurung New Year, is the most important holiday. It is celebrated in December or January. If you visit at the right time, you might see the village come to life with traditional music, dance, and ceremonies that have been going on for generations. Buddhist ceremonies for births, deaths, and other major life events are also important. Local lamas lead these ceremonies and chant in ancient Tibetan.
Getting There: Not as Hard as You Think
One of the best things about Dhampus is how easy it is to get to. You don’t need to prepare for weeks, pay for expensive permits, or get used to the high altitude for this trek.
You can get to Dhampus, a village 25.5 km from Pokhara, by taking a bus from Pokhara to Phedi and then hiking from there. It takes about an hour for the bus to get to Phedi, and then another 2.5 hours to get to Dhampus. Traveling Mandala
Budget travelers can take a public bus or van (microbus) from Pokhara to Phedi. The Baglung Bus Park in Pokhara is where buses to Baglung or Nayapul usually leave. Local buses that go from Pokhara to Baglung leave every half hour or so. Naatatravels: The cost is very low, usually less than NPR 100. This is the local experience choice: crowded, bumpy, and very real.
Taxi or private car: This is the most comfortable option. It takes about 30 to 40 minutes to get from Lakeside Pokhara to Phedi or Kande. Before you get in, talk about the price. Families or groups with luggage should rent a private jeep.
Two trailheads: one starts in the village of Phedi, which is about 30 minutes by car from Pokhara. You can get to lower Dhampus from Phedi by hiking about 2 km up a hill. You can also get to Dhampus village from Kande. It’s about 2 km uphill to get to Australian Camp, and then another 4 km to get to Dhampus village. Himalaya at a high altitude
The Phedi route is shorter and steeper. The Kande route is longer, but it goes through Australian Camp, which has its own amazing view. A lot of trekkers use one as the way up and the other as the way down, making a nice loop.
The Trek Itself: Every Step is a Treat
The Phedi–Dhampus trek is the most popular hike. It’s an easy to moderate uphill walk that even beginners and families can do. The trail begins by climbing stone steps through a lush subtropical forest and terraced fields. It rises about 500 meters in 2 to 3 hours. Naatatravels
Red and white paint markers on rocks and walls make the trail easy to follow, so you won’t get lost even if you don’t have a guide. As you climb through the forest, the canopy changes from subtropical broadleaf trees to rhododendron stands, which are Nepal’s national flower and bloom in bright pink and crimson from March to May.
As you walk, you’ll pass through small villages where kids wave from doorways, old men play cards in the sun, and women carry huge bamboo baskets (called “doko”) full of food or vegetables on their backs, with a tumpline across their foreheads to keep them steady. These aren’t shows for tourists; this is just a regular Tuesday in Dhampus.
The Tower of View
The View Tower is very close to Dhampus Village and is a must-see spot for seeing the tallest mountains in the world, as well as beautiful sunrises and sunsets. The tower is in the Annapurna Conservation Area and was built in 2016 to boost tourism in the area. Visitors who get up early to climb the View Tower are rewarded with a view of Annapurna II, Annapurna IV, Annapurna South, Machhapuchhre, and Hiunchuli. Guide to Traveling in Nepal
Photographers and casual hikers alike say that the moment the sun’s first rays hit Machhapuchhre and slowly flow down the Annapurna chain, changing the snow from gray to pink to blazing gold, is a life-changing visual experience.
Australian Camp
Australian Camp is only 1.5 hours above Dhampus. It used to be called “Thulo Kharka” (big pasture) by locals and was used for grazing cattle and buffalo. When you get to Australian Camp, you’ll be able to see the Annapurna Range and Machhapuchhre in all their glory. Mountainlodgesofnepal Many visitors choose to spend a night in Dhampus and then hike up to Australian Camp for sunrise the following morning before descending — a highly recommended two-day itinerary.
What to do and see
1. See the sunrise and sunset in the Himalayas.
This is the main event, and it never lets you down. You can see the mountains and the thick forest with colorful wildflowers at sunrise. In the evening, this well-kept place has a great view of the sunset as colors dance over the Himalayas. Himalayan Altitude
Set your alarm for 5:30 AM, put on a warm layer, and walk the short distance to the ridge. As the sun rises, you’ll see the dark shapes of the Annapurna range slowly come into view. Then, in shades of amber, rose, and violet, they will catch fire. There is no screen or filter; just you and the tallest mountains on Earth painting the sky.
2. Cultural immersion and a walk through the village
Cultural immersion is one of the best parts of any visit. Tourists can watch or even join in on daily activities like milking buffalo, grinding grain, or celebrating local holidays. Naatatravels Walking along the stone paths of Dhampus is a form of meditation in and of itself. Take a break to look at the carved wooden doorways, watch weavers work at their looms, or sit down with an elder from the village over tea and ask about the past.
People in these villages are also good at making doko (wicker baskets), dalo (bamboo baskets), and naglo (round woven plates) from bamboo, so you can learn some crafts. Nepal Travel Guide Many locals are happy to give brief demonstrations, and some will teach you if you show genuine interest.
3. The Gurung Homestay Experience
Staying with a Gurung family for a night is the best way to get to know Dhampus. Gurung homestays let travelers stay with locals, who will cook you real meals like dal bhat, dhido, and vegetables grown in the area. Nana Mountain Resort
During a typical evening at a homestay, you might cook with your host family, listen to folk music played on traditional instruments, hear stories about serving in the army in Britain or Hong Kong, and sleep under wool blankets with the stars in the mountains filling the window. There is no spa treatment in the world that is as nice as the hospitality of a Gurung grandmother.
4. Watching birds
Birds live all year round in the forests around Dhampus. The subtropical and temperate forest zones are home to a huge number of bird species, such as colorful sunbirds, laughing thrushes, minivets, treepies, and eagles that circle the thermals above the ridgeline. February through April is a great time for birdwatching because it’s the active nesting season and the spring trekking season.
5. Taking pictures
The area around it is great for nature walks, bird watching, and photography, making it a great place for people who love the outdoors. Evedo Whether you use a DSLR or a phone, Dhampus has amazing things to see: the shapes of terraced fields, the weathered faces of Gurung elders, prayer flags against snow-capped peaks, kids playing in courtyards, and those famous mountain views at golden hour.
6. Camping Outside Under the Stars
You can camp overnight in Dhampus village or at Australian Camp. Local lodges offer camping spots and all the things you need, like a tent, an outside fire camp, and food from the area. When you camp at Altitude Himalaya, you wake up to the sound of roosters, the mountain breeze, and the amazing first light on the Himalayas.
7. Onward Treks
Several trekking routes pass through Dhampus village, such as the classic Royal Trek, the Ghorepani Poon Hill trek, the Annapurna Base Camp trek, and the Mardi Himal trek. Altitude Himalaya If you get to Dhampus and your legs are still feeling good, you can keep going into some of Nepal’s most famous trekking areas.
The short hike to Pothana and then Landruk is especially pretty because it goes through forests where rhododendrons make colorful tunnels in the spring. The Sarangkot route is another great choice for people who want to do a full traverse. It goes over a different ridge and has paragliding launch points above Pokhara.
Food: Simple, Honest, and Tasty
In terms of food, Dhampus is not a place to go. It’s something better: a place where food is made with real care and ingredients that are grown right in front of you.
Try the Dal Bhat with Dhido. Dhido is a traditional Gurung dish made with buckwheat flour and hot water. People in the Gurung community usually eat dal bhat with dhido instead of rice. Travelling Mandala makes a thick, satisfying dough-like staple that goes well with lentil soup, seasonal vegetable curry, and fermented pickle (achar). It is unpretentious fuel that somehow tastes extraordinary at altitude after a morning of walking.
Buckwheat pancakes are another local dish. They are soft and a little nutty, and the best way to eat them is with honey from the village’s own beehives. You’ll dream about spreading the local ghee, which is made by hand from buffalo milk, on bread long after you’ve gone home.
The food is simple, filling, and based on local customs. Most lodges and homestays serve traditional Nepali foods like dal bhat, seasonal vegetables, pickles, and milk products that are fresh. The food is organic, home-cooked, and good for you, and the Gurung people are very welcoming. Nana Mountain Resort
A meal in Dhampus costs between NPR 200 and 800 (about $2 to $8) per person on average. This is very cheap for travelers on a budget in Nepal. Even the nicer guesthouses serve filling meals at reasonable prices.
Where to Sleep
There are many places to stay in Dhampus, such as guesthouses, lodges, and homestays. Depending on the type of lodging and the time of year, the average cost of lodging is between NPR 500 and 2,500 (about $5 to $25) per night. Nepal Desk
Homestays are still the most real and popular choice because they put you right in the middle of village life. You share the home, the hearth, and often the conversation with a local family.
Most guesthouses and teahouses have private rooms with basic amenities. Most have hot showers (sometimes solar-heated), squat or Western-style toilets, and a common dining room. You shouldn’t expect luxury, but you should expect your hosts to be clean and friendly.
Mountain Resorts: Nana Mountain Resort is a great place to stay if you want to be comfortable and pampered. It is located on the village ridge of Dhampus and has rooms with views of the mountains. The local Gurung hospitality adds warmth and cultural charm to the resort. Nana Mountain Resort
There are no big hotels, only family-run guest houses or homestays, so tourism directly helps the people who live there. The fact that there is a Tourist Police post in Dhampus shows how popular the area is and how hard they work to keep visitors safe. Naatatravels: This smart rule is why Dhampus has kept its character while other Himalayan places have become too crowded.
When to Go
The best times to visit Dhampus village are in the spring (March, April, and May) and the fall (October, November, and December). The weather is nice during these times of year, with blue skies, stunning mountain views, beautiful nature, and perfect conditions for short hikes around the village. Himalaya Altitude
Some people say that spring (March to May) is the most beautiful time of year. The rhododendron forests burst into bloom along the trail, the air is warm and clear, and the mountains gleam with late-season snow. The skies are especially clear from late March to late April, just before the monsoon clouds start to form.
After the monsoon cleans the air, the skies are the clearest of the year in the fall (October to November). The air is fresh, the mountain views are clear, and the terraced fields are golden with harvest.
Winter (December to February) is cold but doable, and it’s a quieter, more peaceful time to visit. Sometimes, snow falls on the village itself, and the feeling of being alone is very strong.
From June to September, the monsoon season is the worst time to go. The trails get slippery, leeches show up on the path, and clouds cover most of the mountain views. That being said, the valley turns an impossibly bright green, and some travelers love the moody, misty beauty of the landscape.
Permits and Things to Do
You don’t have to get a permit for short hikes in the area, but if you’re an international traveler, it’s a good idea to check with the Tourist Information Center in Pokhara before you leave. The Nana Mountain Resort
If you want to go on longer hikes that go deeper into the Annapurna Conservation Area, like to Poon Hill, Ghorepani, or ABC, you’ll need both a TIMS card (Trekker’s Information Management System) and an ACAP permit (Annapurna Conservation Area Project). You can get both of them at the Nepal Tourism Board office in Pokhara in just a few hours.
Most lodges have electricity, and some even have solar panels, but power outages happen a lot. Carry a power bank. Some guesthouses have Wi-Fi, but it can be slow and unreliable, so don’t count on it. On the ridge, the mobile signal is usually pretty good, especially for NTC and Ncell.
There are no ATMs in Dhampus, so make sure you bring enough Nepalese rupees with you from Pokhara. Most lodges and homestays only take cash.
What to Pack
The trail to Dhampus is pretty easy, but there are a few things you need to bring to make your trip more enjoyable:
Strong walking shoes or light trekking boots (the stone steps can be slippery when wet)
Layered clothes: The ridge is much cooler in the morning and evening than it is in the afternoon.
Rain jacket (all year round; even outside of monsoon season, it rains in the afternoon)
Sunscreen and a hat (UV rays get stronger at higher altitudes)
Water bottle that can be used again and again—fill it up with boiled or filtered water at lodges (don’t use plastic).
Headlamp with extra batteries (for walks before dawn)
Camera or charged phone (you’ll wish you had one when you get there)
A little bit of cash in NPR
“Namaste” (hello/respect), “Dhanyabad” (thank you), and “Ramro” (beautiful) are some Nepali words that really open people’s hearts.
Traveling in a way that is responsible and good for the environment
Dhampus is in a protected conservation area, and its beauty depends on staying true to itself and not being spoiled. Here are a few things to remember:
Buy local: Instead of bringing everything from Pokhara, buy water, snacks, and souvenirs from shops in the village. The families that host you get money directly from your rupees.
Do what you say you’ll do: Waste management in remote villages is not very good. Put any wrappers or plastics in a small bag.
Ask before taking pictures: The Gurung community is friendly and usually welcoming, but you should always ask before taking pictures of people, especially children and older people.
Respect places of worship: Small shrines, prayer wheels, and stone walls with carved mani stones are all holy. Never sit or step over them, and always walk around them in a circle.
Dhampus isn’t a commercial marketplace, which is part of what makes it so charming. You can buy handmade crafts, woolen goods, and hand-woven Ghalek belts made by the villagers. These are small but important pieces of Dhampus village that you can take home with you. Nana Mountain Resort
Itineraries to Try
One Day (Day Trip from Pokhara)
Leave Pokhara at 7:00 AM, drive to Phedi (30 minutes), hike to Dhampus (2.5 hours), have lunch with a view of the mountains, walk around the village and up to the View Tower, then hike back down to Kande and drive back to Pokhara. Back by the early evening.
Two Days (Overnight Hike)
Day 1: Drive to Phedi, then hike to Dhampus, have dinner at a Gurung home, and watch the sunrise from the ridge.
Day 2: Hike to Australian Camp, then back to Dhampus for breakfast. Then trek down to Kande and back to Pokhara.
Three Days (A Deep Look at Culture)
Day 1: Drive to Phedi, then hike to Dhampus, and then walk around the village in the afternoon.
Day 2: Get up at View Tower, hike to Australian Camp, and come back by sunset.
Day 3: Spend the morning with your host family, then hike to Pothana and drive back from Kande.
Last Thoughts: Why Dhampus Is Important
Instagram itineraries and bucket-list checkboxes are becoming more and more common in today’s world. Dhampus, on the other hand, offers something quieter and more lasting: the feeling of having really arrived somewhere.
The activities you can do, like hiking through beautiful landscapes, learning about the Gurung culture, eating traditional Nepali food, and taking pictures of nature’s beauty, all work together to give you a complete travel experience. In just 24 hours, you might see a beautiful sunrise, learn a folk song from a local child, see a rare bird, and eat a delicious curry that someone made at home. Naatatravels
From here, you can’t see the tallest peak. It’s not the hardest trail you’ll ever walk. But Dhampus shows you that the best travel experiences aren’t always the most extreme; sometimes they’re just the most honest. A ridge of stone above the clouds. A family that treats you like their own. Mountains that are so big and so close that they gently remind you of where you belong in the world.
That is Dhampus. And once it gets you, it will always have a part of you.
